The quantity of good fats (lipids) needed by the skin depends on the color of the skin and also if the climate is cold or if there is a lot of sun. In case of extreme climate (cold or hot) dark skin needs more lipids. In any case, if a person with melanin-rich skin lives outside her or his natural climate the skin will need extra care.
THE SUN AND VITAMIN D
Melanin-rich skin also needs sun protection. The melanocytes in the skin are next to the sebaceous glands. They form a perfect union – melanin creates the skin’s color and is nourished by the skin’s own fat.
When dark skin types live outside of their natural, sunny climate this has a strong impact on their skin. The composition of the sebum is significantly altered as the skin does not get sufficient amounts of vitamin D. Vitamin D supplementation is helpful and necessary, but nevertheless these skin types also need to expose their skin to the sun for the sebum to function correctly.
Depending on the skin color, darker skin may need up to four times more sun exposure than lighter coloured skin to synthesise the same amount of vitamin D. If darker skin types live outside their natural climate, they are more prone to vitamin D deficiency, which negatively affects the correct functioning of the sebaceous glands. If there is too little sun exposure, the composition of the skin fat starts to get saturated, which leads to more comedones, pimples and enlarged pores.
OMEGA 3, 6, 7 and 9
For dark skin types it is essential to apply creams and oils that help to maintain the skin’s correct balance of essential fatty acids (Omega 3, 6, 7 and 9).
Cosmetics that contain comedogenic fats (synthetic or chemically modified fats) which increase the saturation of the skin, can cause skin problems especially in people with darker skin.
The 3 most important factors in dark skin are the melanocytes, the sebum (skin fat) and the vitamin D levels. It is essential that the skin fat has a balanced composition of essential fatty acids. Depending on the quality of the consumed nutrients (what we eat and what we put on our skin), the sebum will oxidise slower or faster.
An excess of oxygen leads to oxidation, which speeds up the aging process. When we consume balanced nutrients internally and externally, our skin can control the oxygen and avoid it from getting blocked. The same is true for the entire body – a balanced diet allows our body to control the oxidation process and to avoid the creation of free radicals that destroy our cells.
Melanin-rich skin is thicker, because of the increased quantity of melanocytes and sebaceous glands. It rarely suffers from dehydration as this skin type’s natural water takes longer to evaporate. On the other hand it is important to control the skin fat of dark skin. Since the skin is thicker, there may be problems within the different layers of the skin. Therefore melanin-rich skin encounters more problems related to acne and impurities compared to people with lighter skin.
There are also more problems related to pigmentation. If pimples, insect bites or cuts occur, melanin-rich skin produces more keratin, which is then colored by melanin, resulting in dark spots on the skin.
An ashy complexion of dark skin can be the result of vitamin D deficiency, an unbalanced diet and a bad regulation of the essential fatty acids (Omega 3, 6, 7 and 9) in the skin and the body. In case of excess sebum (skin fat), dark skin can become flaccid. We recommend the regular application of the firming serum Silk Resurrection to prevent tissue flaccidity.